Thursday, April 24, 2003 :::
 

The colours are amazing tropical light blue gives way to cobalt blue, a menacing blue of the deep ocean. Launching and punching through the shore break, speeding across the reef to meet an onrushing swell Timing is crucial, the wind must co-operate, the swell lumps up slowly as you watch. Then as it jacks up upon the reef you sheet in hard capturing the power of the breeze and accelerate, hitting the wave just as is feathers white. You vault out of the ocean and briefly fly, down below is the blue and frothy white of the breaker. Above, the marshmallow clouds of a trade wind sky. You parachute back down still hooked in and the wind fills your sail as another swell lumbers in from the deep. This one, the last of the set is bigger than the rest you gybe, positioning yourself in front of the beast. Paying heed to its speed you pump your sail and rise on a plane just as the swell lifts you. It walls up over the submerged coral below. Now is the penultimate moment. Boils appear on the smooth surface in front of the wave. Driving hard down the face, pressuring the rail of the board through your toes you begin a hard bottom turn, hesitate here and the power of the ocean will pummel you into the reef not 6 inches below the surface. Coming off the bottom glancing through your sail you see the way paved in blue down the line. With speed you carry up though the face and into the pitching lip. As you launch the power of the wave throws you forward into a blur of foam. You land and instinctively bend into another bottom turn out racing the break and tucking into the sweet blue wall of perfection racing down the line as natures energy bends its way around the reef.

::: posted by Mega at 6:54 AM

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Mega means big or large stir because I like to mix it up